I knew I loved Leh, when on the last day of my first trip (back in 2013), I had a sinking feeling in the pit of my stomach as we drove through the market for the last time. No matter how great a holiday, I always look forward to going back to my dogs and yearn for my bed.
This time was different. I’d spent evenings walking along the bustling market, soaking in the culture, connecting with the pink-faced, warm locals. Most of my time was spent craning my neck staring at the clouds that looked like something an inebriated painter had created on a particularly whimsical day. I was transfixed by the Tibetan symbols plastered everywhere, imbued with hidden meanings. After a particularly invigorating bike ride with my brother, we vowed to get matching eternity knot tattoos (we did) as an ode to our time in Leh.
Everyone talks about how magical the landscape of Leh and Ladakh is, but truly there’s no way to describe it. You can only experience it. It called me to it three times. This time, my third, I stayed away from the bustle of Leh city – and planted base 6 kms away — in Agling village, at Le Mentok Wellness Resort. Here’s why I think it’s perfect for Leh first-timers, those who have been there, seen that, and everyone in between.
- It gives you the seclusion you’re looking for: Set in the peaceful Agling village, on the banks of the tranquil Indus River with the Himalayas surrounding it, the sprawling property has plenty of space for some soul-searching. and for those with kids, plenty of space for them to run around — unlike the Leh city-based properties that tend to be a little smaller and in the middle of the bustling market place. I could have spent days just sitting by the river, watching the sunset change from one candy coloured hue to the other. They also arrange for bonfires by the river, so you can star gaze at night in the warmth.
- It’s the sustainable choice: The property is constructed using as much local material and with low-impact techniques, it is solar dependent (the geysers are incredible) and the resort houses a water refilling station to reduce plastic bottle usage.They even try and source their vegetables, fruits and dairy from neighbouring villages.This focus on sustainability was especially important when I saw the intense amounts of construction going on (including a giant new airport), and the way the market is expanding. I understand development is important, but it made me wonder what locals think, and how this massive amount of development is impacting the ecology. As a tourist, I know I’m contributing to resource usage, but when it first opened up, tourism was an important industry for them. Now, I wonder if it’s doing more harm than good.
- Its living spaces will be your home away from home: They have 16 cottages, each with a little private sit out. The rooms are warm, and comfortably fit two adults, and one child (with an extra bed). The bathrooms are well designed and clean. Mud, Straw, Stone and Wood Compressed Earth Blocks (CEB), accepted as one of the few sustainable building materials, are used as a primary construction material along with locally sourced stones and wood, meaning even on the coldest of cold days, when you’re inside your cottage, you’re warmer than a marshmallow right out of the fire. Two duplex cottages were still a WIP when we visited.
- It’ll satiate your tastebuds: We opted for the breakfast package, and thanks to their in-house Le Mentok restaurant were greeted with simple, home-style food every morning, from aloo parathas to eggs, and more. Their dinner and lunch options include Ladakhi, Indian, Continental and Chinese cuisine. Le Mentok Terrace Café is an al fresco, all-day dining café, on the floor above the restaurant, that overlooks the river on one side, and is perfect to settle down with chai, or whiskey.
*Le Mentok had only been open for three months when we visited, but eventually they hope to have a fully functional spa as well. We’d like to give a special mention to the incredibly warm staff, especially Amo at the front desk who helped us do everything — from plan our day trips, to rent a bike, to give us restaurant recommendations. We didn’t feel like we were guests for a minute, we were welcomed as family.
Fact file
Leh is the capital city of the Union territory of Ladakh, in North India. (Direct flights are easily available from major Indian cities, and it’s the easiest way to get in, and you can also drive / ride in via road. The most popular route is via Manali. You can find our Kasol – Leh road trip itinerary here). It’s most viable to rent a bike if you can to get around Leh, taxis can be expensive, unless you’re in a group.
Best time to visit: April – October
Leh-Ladakh has an intense winter, with some roads shut off due to snow in some months. However, the famous frozen Chadar trek draws travellers to it between January and the end of February.